Saturday 13 August 2011

Khmer Angkor Driver>>Other Things To Do In Siem Reap



   

As enthralling as the temples of Angkor may be, there are lots of other things to see and do around Siem Reap. Seeing a bit of Cambodia away from the temples can help avert ‘temple-burnout’ and round out your Cambodian experience as well as help Cambodia by taking some tourist pressure off of the temples and spreading the tourism dollars a bit more widely. In addition to the following suggestions, check out the sections on visiting the Tonle Sap Lake and bird sanctuary, attending a traditional dance performance, going on a helicopter, balloon and elephant rides, traditional markets and good causes. Also see Volunteer opportunities and Charitable Organizations: All Cambodia for more information. Fort more ideas on other things to do around Siem Reap see the NGO-based Stay Another Day website.


Angkor Hospital for Children
In the middle of the town, near the river. Foreign and Cambodian doctors. Pediatric hospital and clinical training site for Cambodian doctors, nurses and paramedical personnel. Provides medical consultation and emergency care for expats and tourists. Blood donors always welcome. Tel: 063-963409, Fax: 063-760452
E-mail: fwab@fwab.com
Web site: www.fwab.org


Angkor Wat in Miniature
Artist and master craftsman Dy Proeung has created several beautiful, hand carved and cast sandstone and concrete miniatures of Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ban-teay Srey and other Angkorian era temples and figures. Visit his workshop/display yard to view his carvings and castings and to see the artist at work. Mr. Dy Proeung has received an award of recognition for his works from the former King of Cambodia, Norodom Sihanouk. Well worth the $1.50 admission fee. Located just off of the river road, north of Route #6 near the center of town. Look for the sign on the river road. 

Bird Watching and Environmental Tours
Siem Reap offers some unique bird watching opportunities. The Prek Toal bird sanctuary on the Tonle Sap Lake and the Ang Trapeng Thmor reservoir northeast of Siem Reap both are home to many rare and threatened species. For the Prek Toal bird sanctuary see on the Tonle Sap page.

(The following about Ang Trapeng Thmor comes courtesy of the Sam Veasna Center.) Originating as a reservoir on the Angkorian highway 66 it was rebuilt as a man-made irrigation and water storage reservoir by slave labor during the Khmer Rouge Regime in 1976. The reservoir now harbors a unique wetland associated with grassland, dipterocarp forests and paddy fields. Aside from being a feeding ground for more than 300 Sarus Crane in the dry (non-breeding) season, more than 200 species of other birds occur here, of which 18 have been classified as globally or near globally threatened. This is also one of the handful of sites in Cambodia where the endangered Eld’s Deer can be seen. Colonies of fruit bats inhabit larger trees that are often semi submerged on the edge of the reservoir.

The best time to see the Sarus Crane is from February to May though an abundance of bird species can be viewed all year. There is also a hill top Angkorian temple a few kilometers into the forest while traditional silk weaving is still practiced in the adjacent village. A boat trip can be taken on the reservoir which depending on the time of year is 11km along and 8 wide and offers fantastic views of the surrounding countryside

Officially declared a Sarus Crane Reserve by Royal Decree in 2000 the area designated covers over 12000 Hectares, following the work of Sam Veasna and his friends at the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), all foreign visitors are required are required to register at the WCS Office in the adjacent village.

ATT is a day trip from Siem Reap though accommodation can be arranged at the WCS HQ (tel 012 703033) or organized through the Sam Veasna Center in Siem Reap (tel 012 520828) in the adjacent village, giving birdwatchers the chance of dawn sightings and offering the opportunity of visiting the massive Angkorian temple complex of Banteay Chma

Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity (ACCB) is the first nature conservation center in Cambodia, located near Kbal Spean, about one hour north of Siem Reap. The aims of the center are the rescue, rehabilitation, breeding and reintroduction of threatened wildlife, in combination with an environmental education program, promoting wildlife conservation and training local villagers in the sustainable use of natural resources. Free guided center tour Monday to Friday at 13:00 (for groups, other times can be arranged).
Tel: 011-426856, 099-604017
info@accb-cambodia.org
www.accb-cambodia.org

Sam Veasna Center (SVC) SVC organizes half or full day trips focusing on birds but offering a glimpse of Cambodian rural life with a trained local guide. SVC was set up to promote wildlife conservation in Cambodia. It works together with the Wildlife Conservation Society and local village communities to develop remote sites close to the habitat of some spectacular bird life. The local communities benefit from the infrastructure set up for the visitors. Trips to see Sarus Crane at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Giant and White Shouldered Ibis at Tamtboey, A vulture restaurant at Chhep amongst others, plus some of the most beautiful and unspoiled countryside in Cambodia.
Tel: 063-963710.
E-mail: bookings@samveasna.org.
Web: www.samveasna.org

Beatocello and Jayavarman VII Children's Hospital
Dr. Beat Richner plays Bach on the cello and speaks about the activities of his children’s hospitals (Jayavarman VII in Siem Reap, Kantha Bopha 1 and 2 in Phnom Penh) every Friday and Saturday evening at 7:15PM. Performances are held at the Jayavarman VII Hospital, located on the road to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Dr. Richner provides an entertaining and worthy Saturday evening. The hospital welcomes both monetary and blood donations.
Website: www.beatocello.com


Balloon Rides 
Unique new addition to the Angkor area. Take a tethered helium balloon ride 200 meters straight up for an amazing aerial view of Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng, West Baray and other ruins amongst the surrounding jungle and rice paddies. Bring a camera and binoculars if you have them. The big, yellow balloon is based on the road from the airport to Angkor Wat, about a kilometer from the front gates of Angkor Wat.
Tel: 012-520810

Butterfly Garden
Butterflies Garden Restaurant features 1,500 tropical butterflies and a koi pond in a romantic, private garden. Creative tropical cuisine, including unique Khmer specialties, is served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. An array of fresh juices, shakes, beer, wine and cocktails is also available. Butterflies Garden Restaurant specializes in group events of all kinds from corporate retreats to children's birthday parties. Check our website ( www.butterfliesofangkor.com ) for a listing of family-oriented activities and traditional and contemporary Khmer performance art. 

Cambodian Cultural Village
A unique, sprawling new cultural attraction in Siem Reap, intended to introduce the visitor to Cambodian culture and history. Wax museum with scenes and figures from history. Fascinating 1/20th scale models of sites such as Phsar Thmey and the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh and the hills and temples of Oudong. Full scale models of a variety of Cambodian architectural types, including different styles of huts and homes, hill tribe houses, pagoda and mosque. Live shows, traditional dance performances and music. Traditional Khmer wedding show twice per day. On Airport Road.
Tel/Fax: 063-963836,
E-mail: ccv@camintel.com
Web Site: www.khmerangkordriver.com

Cooking Classes
 
Peace Café
The Peace Café in the Wat Bo area holds regularly scheduled vegetarian cooking classes. Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 11:00AM-1:00PM. $20/person, no appointment needed. Lunch included.
Tel: 092-177127. www.peacecafeangkor.org

The RiverGarden
Restaurant is offering culinary tours and cooking courses focusing, of course, on local fare. Unique culinary tours such as ‘Cooks in Tuk Tuks’ and include a tour of a local market(s) with an introduction to local culinary culture, foods and ingredients, cooking equipment, etc. followed by cooking classes at the restaurant. Call 063-963400 for schedule.
www.rivergarden.info

Countryside Tours
If your schedule allows, set aside a day or three to get out of the Siem Reap Town/main temple area and into the countryside. The vast majority of Cambodians live and work in the rural countryside and a countryside tour or even a day trip to a remote temple ruin can provide a glimpse of ‘real Cambodia’ - picturesque, bucolic scenery, rice paddies and water buffalos, countryside pagodas and little villages filled with traditional stilted houses... And there are a number of ways to see it: by 4WD or dirtbikes, ATVs, bicycle, ox cart and more. The following tour operators specialize in countryside expeditions.

 


Peace Of Angkor 
Set up by a British photographer in 2003; Peace Of Angkor run remote temple, Tonle sap lake and Bird watching tours. Prek Toal and The Sarus Crane Reserve at Ang Trapang Thmor are featured during the dry season. These can be combined with remote temples like Banteay Chhmar, Koh Ker and Even Preah Khan Kompong Svay to give unique insight into rural life as well spectacular temple sights.
200 meters east of the Catholic Church near Wat Po Lanka Siem Reap, Cambodia
Tel: +(855) (0)63-760475, +(855) (0)12-934412
E-mail: info@peaceofangkor.com
Website: www.peaceofangkor.com (has comprehensive info and photography of Angkor and beyond.)

Terre-Cambodge
Mountain bike (TREK, GIANT) and trekking specialist. Overnight in some villages. Tonle Sap Lake boat tours (bird sanctuary, floating and stilted villages,) elephant trekking and more. Tailor made itineraries. 
#668, Hup Guan Street, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Tel: +(855) (0)92-476682
info@terrecambodge.com
www.terrecambodge.com , www.bikingcambodia.com



Elephants





 

In the morning, you can have an elephant riding, in comfortable palanquins, around the temple Prah Pitouh and in after noon the ascent of Phnom Bakend 
Elephant Rides 
During the day, elephants await customers near Bayon or at the South Gate of Angkor Thom. In the evenings, elephants are stationed at the base of Phnom Bakheng, ready to transport riders up the hill for sunset. $10-$15 for a 25 minute ride.

Golf

Phokeethra Country Club Siem Reap’s first international golf club. 18-hole, 72 par golf course spread over 155 hectares and stretching 6.53 kms. A combination of paspulum grasses allows for year round golf. Putting green, pitching area, driving range, pro-shop and restaurant. Managed by Sofitel Royal Angkor Golf & Spa Resort. Located along Route #6 in Pouk district 16 kilometers from town.
Tel: 063-964600

Helicopter Rides 

Sokha Helicopters Sokha Helicopters offer scenic helicopter tours of the temples beginning at $50/pax. Specialized tours, aerial photography, charter services. Multiple aircraft. Conveniently located next to the big, yellow balloon about 1km from Angkor Wat on the road from the airport to Angkor Wat. Walk-in customer welcome. For reservations call: 012-1848891, 016-731468
www.sokhahelicopters.com      

Horseback Riding    

The Happy Ranch
International standards horse stable offering countryside trail rides (1-4 hours) through rice fields, villages, and to Buddhist pagodas on gorgeous Cambodian horses and ponies. A great way to get an inside look at true Cambodian life. Sunrise to sunset. Also offering cart rides through the local villages in Siem Reap, Angkor. To avoid disappointment and to ensure a personalized experience please book directly with us in advance.
Tel: 012 920002 / 016 920002  
www.thehappyranch.com

Meditation/Yoga

Introductory session in the ancient art of Raja Yoga Meditation, or just experience some silence time at our Meditation Hut. Experienced teachers offer a practical and simple meditation technique. Books and CDs in many languages available. Registered NGO in over 130 countries.
Located at Peace Café, just off the river road, Street 26, Wat Bo Area. Also located in Phnom Penh.     
Tel: 063-965210, 092-177127
Tel: 011-751395
Website: www.bkrajayoga.org

Villa Shanti
Villa Shanti is a New Age culture centre with a variety of different services. In our Yoga Center we offer a wide range of self-development activities, such as yoga, qigong, tai-chi, martial arts & kickboxing, bioenergetics & chakras opening courses, various trainings, life-coaching sessions and meditations of any kind. Here you will also find the Agency of Spiritual Tourism, alternative medicine centre, fortune-telling and event-agency. We work with groups and individually. Not far from Angkor National Museum, Salakonseng, Svaydongkum.
Tel: 063-969060, 097-9198101, 097-8376554
Website: www.villa-shanti.com

Museums 

Angkor National Museum
The newly opened Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap promises eight chronologically ordered galleries of Angkorian-era artifacts and multi-media presentations of Angkorian history and culture. The Museum had just opened its doors and was not quite completed at time of printing, but should be very soon. Admissions price: US$12 (for foreigners). $2 for a camera. Hours: 9:00AM - 8:00PM. Located in town, on the road to the Angkor Park.
Tel. 063-966601.
Website: www.angkornationalmuseum.com

Cambodian Cultural Village
A unique, sprawling cultural attraction, intended to introduce the visitor to Cambodian culture and history. Interesting wax museum features scenes and figures from history. Large park area with 1/20th scale models of important cultural sites and landmarks. Full scale models of a variety of Cambodian architectural types. Entrance: $12. 9AM - 9PM. Airport Road. Tel: 063-963836

Cambodia Land Mine Museum & Relief Facility
The Cambodia Landmine Museum has evolved from a small shack museum by former soldier and deminer Akira to a formal museum and charitable organization. The museum exhibits a variety of defused mines, bombs and other ordinance as well as information on mines, demining and Cambodia’s mine problem. Located six km south of Banteay Srey.
Website: www.cambodialandminemuseum.org
Siem Reap War Museum
Displaying a wide variety of military hardware and equipment in decrepit condition, taken from the battlefield. Heavy armor including T-54 tanks, anti-aircraft guns, artillery pieces, rocket launchers, APCs, small arms and piles of disarmed mines, bombs and small arms. Most of the larger pieces are labeled. Located on Route #6 (Airport Road).

Pagodas & Shrines 
Buddhist pagodas are the traditional seat of Khmer culture. Siem Reap, like many Cambodian towns, is a collection of villages, which grew around individual pagodas, later coalescing into the town. To get a true feel for Cambodia, a visit to at least one pagoda is a must.

Shrine to Preah Ang Chek & Preah Ang Chorm Of particular importance to the locals is the small shrine in front of the Grand Hotel D’Angkor containing two standing Buddhas of the names Preah Ang Chek (taller) and Preah Ang Chorm (shorter). They are surrounded by stories of power and indestructibility. Visitors are welcome to make offerings and take photos. The reverence of local pilgrims is palpable.

Shrine to Ya Tep Under a huge tree in the traffic circle in front of the royal residence is a statue of Ya Tep, a neak-ta. Neak-ta are powerful spirits connected to a particular area of land. Ya Tep is local to Siem Reap and is said to help bring protection (and winning lottery numbers) to the faithful. Offerings of chicken skins can often be seen around the shrine.

Wat Bo Founded in the 18th century. A large, highly respected pagoda. Like the Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh, the vihear of Wat Bo contains very unique wall paintings of the Reamker that are said to be late 19th century. Look for the ordinary-life market scenes such as an opium smoking Chinese merchant, the colonial era French officer at the market and the French soldiers attending a traditional dance performance. Also of interest is the large collection of Buddha statues located behind the main Buddha.

Wat Keseram “Pagoda of the Cornflower Petals”. Pastoral setting and extensive, detailed collection of the life of Buddha on the interior of the vihear make this one of the more interesting wats to visit. The date of establishment is unclear, but most agree that the vihear was constructed in the early 1970’s.

Wat Preah Prohm Rath An unspectacular but idyllically situated wat on the river in the center of town. Founded in 1915, the main vihear was constructed in 1945. Oddly enough, the wat grounds hold two large cannons said to have belonged to the larger-than-life 20th century warlord, Dap Chhoun.

Wat Thmei (New Wat) The wat contains a unique glass-walled stupa containing the bones of victims of the Khmer Rouge. Some of the bones were recovered from a nearby well while others are the remains of soldiers who died on a nearby battlefield. 500m west of the road to Angkor about 1.5km north of town.


Tattoos

Neng Sinath Tattoo Machine
Local tattoo artist doing tattoos by tattoo gun or by the traditional bamboo method. Located on Sok San Club road about 200m west of Sivutha Blvd.
Tel: 012-804508
E-mail: yousinath@yahoo.com

No visit to Cambodia is complete without attending at least one traditional Khmer dance performance, often referred to as 'Apsara Dance' after one of the most popular Classical dance pieces. Traditional Khmer dance is better described as 'dance-drama' in that the dances are not merely dance but are also meant to convey a story or message. There are four main modern genres of traditional Khmer dance: 1) Classical Dance, also known as Court or Palatine Dance (lakhon preah reach troap or lakhon luong); 2) Shadow theater (sbeik thom and sbeik toot); 3) Lakhon Khol (all-male masked dance-drama.); 4) Folk Dance (Ceremonial and Theatrical).

As evidenced in part by the innumerable apsaras (celestial dancers) that adorn the walls of Angkorian and pre-Angkorian temples, dance has been part of Khmer culture for well more than a millennium, though there have been ruptures in the tradition over the centuries, making it impossible to precisely trace the source of the tradition. Much of traditional dance (especially Classical) is inspired by Angkorian-era art and themes, but the tradition has not been passed unbroken from the age of Angkor. Most traditional dances seen today were developed in the 18th through 20th centuries, beginning in earnest with a mid-19th century revival championed by King Ang Duong (reigned 1841-1869). Subsequent Kings and other Khmer Royals also strongly supported the arts and dance, most particularly Queen Sisowath Kossamak Nearireach (retired King Norodom Sihanouk's mother) in the mid-20th century, who not only fostered a resurgence in the study and development of Khmer traditional dance, but also helped move it out of the Palace and popularize it. Queen Sisowath Kossamak trained her grand daughter Princess Bopha Devi in the art of traditional dance from early childhood, who went on to become the face of Khmer traditional dance in the 1950s and 60s both in Cambodia and around the world. Many traditional dances that are seen in performances today were developed and refined between the 1940s and 1960s under the guidance and patronage of Queen Sisowath Kossamak at the Conservatory of Performing Arts and the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh. Almost all of the Theatrical Folk dances that are presented in modern performances were developed during this period. Like so much of Cambodian art and culture, traditional dance was almost lost under the brutal repression of the Khmer Rouge regime of the late 1970s, only to be revived and reconstructed in the 1980s and 90s due, in large part, to the extraordinary efforts of Princess Bopha Devi.

Classical dance, including the famous 'Apsara dance,' has a grounded, subtle, even restrained, yet feather-light, ethereal appearance. Distinct in its ornate costuming, taut posture, arched back and feet, fingers flexed backwards, codified facial expressions, slow, close, deliberate but flowing movements, Classical dance is uniquely Khmer. It presents themes and stories inspired primarily by the Reamker(the Cambodian version of the Indian classic, the Ramayana) and the Age of Angkor.

Folk Dance come in two forms: ceremonial and theatrical. As a general rule, only Theatrical Folk Dance is presented in public performances, with Ceremonial Folk Dances reserved for particular rituals, celebrations and holidays. Theatrical Folk Dances such as the popular Good Harvest Dance and the romantic Fishing Dance are usually adaptations of dances found in the countryside or inspired by rural life and practices. Most of the Theatrical Folk Dances that are seen in performances today were developed at the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh in the 1960s as part of an effort to preserve and perpetuate Khmer culture and arts.

Shadow theatre comes in two forms: Sbeik Thom (big puppets that are actually panels depicting certain characters from the story) andSbeik Toot (small articulated puppets). The black leather puppets are held in front of a light source, either in front or behind a screen, creating a shadow or silhouette effect. Sbeik Thom is the more uniquely Cambodian, more formal of the two types, restricting itself to stories from the Reamker. The performance is accompanied by a pin peat orchestra and narration, and the puppeteers are silent, moving the panels with dance-like movements. Sbeik Toot has a far lighter feel, presenting popular stories of heroes, adventures, love and battles, with or without orchestra and with the puppeteers often doing the narration.

Lakhon Khol is all male masked theatre presenting exclusively stories from the Reamker.

Most dance performances in Siem Reap offer a mixture of Classical and Theatrical Folk dances. A few venues offer Shadow Theater. Many of the dance performances in Siem Reap consist of 4-6 individual dances, often opening with an Apsara Dance, followed by two other Classical dances and two or three Theatrical Folk dances. The Apsara Dance is a Classical dance inspired by the apsara carvings and sculptures of Angkor and developed in the late 1940s by Queen Sisowath Kossamak. Her grand daughter and protégé, Princess Bopha Devi, was the first star of the Apsara Dance. The central character of the dance, the apsara Mera, leads her coterie of apsaras through a flower garden where they partake of the beauty of the garden. The movements of the dance are distinctly Classical yet, as the dance was developed for theatrical presentation, it is shorter and a bit more relaxed and flowing than most Classical dances, making it both an excellent example of the movements, manner and spirit of Classical dance and at the same time particularly accessible to a modern audience unaccustomed to the style and stories of Khmer dance-drama.

Another extremely popular dance included in most traditional dance performances in Siem Reap is the Theatrical Folk Dance known as the 'Fishing Dance.' The Fishing Dance is a playful,  energetic folk dance with a strong, easy-to-follow story line. It was developed in the 1960s at theRoyal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh and was inspired by the developer's interpretation of certain rather idealized and stereotyped aspects aspects of rural life and young love. Clad in rural attire, a group of young men and women fish with rattan baskets and scoops, dividing their attention between work and flirtatious glances. Women are portrayed as hardworking, shy, demurring and coy, whereas the young men are strong, unrestrained, roguish and assertive. As the dance continues a couple is separated from the group allowing the flirtations between them to intensify, only to be spoiled by the male character playing a bit too rough, leading to her coy rejection. He pokes and plays trying to win her back, bringing only further rejection. Eventually he gently apologizes on bended knee and after some effort, draws a smile and her attention once again. Just as they move together, the group returns, startling the couple and evoking embarrassment as they both rush to their 'proper' roles once again. The men and women exit at opposite sides of the stage, leaving the couple almost alone, but under pressure of the groups, they separate, leaving in opposite directions, yet with index finger placed to mouth, hint of a secret promise to meet again. (In an interesting side note, placing one's index finger to the lips to denote quiet or secrecy is not, generally speaking, a gesture found in Cambodia, but is common in the West. Its employment in the dance probably indicates a certain amount of 'foreign influence' amongst the Cambodian choreographers when the dance was developed in the 1960s.)         

Recommended reading:
Dance in Cambodia by Tony Samantha Phim and Ashley Thompson. New York: Oxford University Press, 1999
Dance of Life: The Mythology, History and Politics of Cambodian Culture by Julie B. Metha. Singapore: Graham Brash Pte. Singapore, 2001

Performance Venues in Siem Reap

There are occasional dance performances at the temples but most visitors attend one of the nightly dinner performances at a local restaurant. Dinner ordinarily begins at 6:00 or 7:00PM and dance performances at 7:30PM or 8:00PM, consisting of 4 or 5 dances, lasting about 45 minutes to an hour in all. (Contact the performance venue for specifics.) Many places offer a buffet featuring Khmer and international food. Some offer a set menu Khmer dinner. Price and venue style vary considerably. Most restaurants with buffets and set menus run between $10 and $25 including the buffet and performance. Some restaurants do not charge admission for the performance, but you are expected to order dinner. For the best seats, call for reservations, especially during the high season.

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